Temperature Settings

• To achieve the best adhesion on the new surface, it is important to keep the surface clean. Cleaning of the surface is very easy. The best option is Isopropyl alcohol available in drugstores which is the best for ABS, PLA and others, except for PETG where the adhesion may be too strong (See PET for instructions). Pour a little amount on unscented paper towel and wipe the print surface. The bed should be cleaned while cold for the best results but it can also be cleaned when already preheated for PLA, just be careful not to touch the bed surface or the nozzle. When cleaning at higher temperatures the alcohol will evaporate before it can clean anything. Alternatively, you can clean the bed with warm water and a few drops of a dish soap on a paper towel. Denatured alcohol is yet another option.
• You can leave small marks on the print surface with your nozzle or tools, they will typically be shinier that the rest. It does not affect the functionality or adhesion. However if you want to have same surface look on whole printbed you can resurface it. Easiest way is to take a hard side of dry kitchen sponge and wipe the affected area with circular motion gently few times.
• When printing is finished let the nozzle and heatbed cool down before removing the printed object. Always handle the printed objects when temperature of the bed and nozzle drop to the room temperature, when the bed is hot objects are very hard to remove. Pull the bed towards you and remove the object gently.
• If you experience any troubles removing the object (especially the small ones) you can use a flat tool like a spatula with rounded corners to prevent damage of PEI. Slide the spatula under the corner of the object and gently push, until the print pops of.

• In some special occasions, like tall object with very small contact area with print surface, you might need to increase the adhesion. Fortunately PEI is very chemically resistant polymer and you can temporary apply other adhesion solutions without damaging it. This also applies to materials which would not stick to PEI otherwise, like Nylon etc.
• Before applying anything to the bed, consider using Brim option in Slic3r which increases the surface area of the first layer.
• For PLA and Nylon blends simple glue stick does the trick. Glue can be later easily removed by window cleaner or dish soap water.
• For ABS prints, ABS juice can be used and later cleaned with pure acetone. Be very gentle when applying the juice and do so while the bed is cold. Prints will attach very strongly.

Material suitable for common, robust objects. Be careful from the fumes it creates. You can use ABS juice.

• Nozzle temperature: 255 °C
• Bed temperature: 100 °C. You can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature)
• Heatbed: Make sure the surface is clean as described in 6.3.2 PEI print surface preparation chapter
• Surface preparation: Make sure the surface is clean.

Material suitable for detailed models. PLA is made of renewable sources, mostly from the cornflour and cellulose. This material only is proven for 50 microns layer height. PLA also prints better at angles as opposed to ABS.

• Nozzle temperature: 190-215 °C
• Bed temperature: 50 - 60 °C
• Heatbed: Make sure the surface is clean, as described in 6.3.2 PEI print surfacepreparation chapter
• Surface preparation: I use IPA (Isopropyl alcohol, NOT Rubbing Alcohol) on a COLD BED before a new print. If you print a lot, you can wipe down with Acetone once a week. This material only is proven for 50 microns layer height.

Material suitable for large objects thanks to its minimal thermal expansion. Universal material suited also for printable mechanical components.

• Nozzle temperature: 240 °C
• Bed temperature: 80 - 100 °C
• Heatbed: Make sure the surface is clean, as described in 6.3.2 PEI print surface preparation chapter. Do not use isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed, or the adhesion may be too strong, if you do not have anything else on hand use the bundled glue as a separator after cleaning it. Windex or similar windows cleaner is great option for PET and you don't need to use the glue after the cleaning. Pour a little amount on unscented paper towel and wipe the print surface.
• Surface preparation: Make sure the surface is clean. Do not use isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed, or the adhesion may be too strong, if you do not have anything else on hand use the bundled glue as a separator after cleaning it. Windex or similar windows cleaner is great option for PET and you don’t need to use the glue after the cleaning. Pour a little amount on unscented paper towel and wipe the print surface.

Universal, stable material with good heat resistance suited for printable mechanical components.

• Nozzle temperature: 220 °C
• Bed temperature: 90-100 °C. You can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature)
• Heatbed: Make sure the surface is clean, as described in 6.3.2 PEI print surface preparation chapter 41
• Surface preparation: Make sure the surface is clean.

Polypropylene is a flexible and resistant material suitable for printing of the precise objects requiring the flexibility, firmness and persistence.

• Nozzle temperature: 254 °C
• Bed temperature: 95 - 100 °C.
• Heatbed: The best results are obtained with common scotch tape - just attach the tape directly to the print surface and clean it after the print is finished.
• Surface preparation:The best results are obtained with common scotch tape – just attach the tape directly to the print surface and clean it after the print is finished.

Nylon is very tough material suitable for mechanical parts.

• Nozzle temperature: 240 °C
• Bed temperature: 80 - 90 °C.
• Heatbed: Use one coat of glue stick. Clean as described after the print.
• Surface preparation:Use one coat of gluestick. Clean as described after the print.

Flex is a very strong and flexible material suitable especially for the flexible prototypes, covers, etc. Important: Before you start printing from Flex, clean the nozzle from the previous material - preheat the nozzle and load PLA to remove any other previous material. When loading Flex loosen the extruder (idler) screws. Keep in mind that when printing from Flex the automatic filament exchange function may not work properly. Do NOT do a "load filament" command; use the Settings > Move Axis > extruder to load it. Here's a helpful video.

From the forum.

I got a beautiful ninjaflex print the first try on my mk2. Used Flex settings, turned speed down to 35%. Found I could go as fast as 45% if I wanted the infill to not be stringy. The perimeters were flawless, but the infill is printed way too fast, and the fill layers way too slow (it looked like a bad hot glue job), while the bridging speeds were perfect.

So I'll have to make a new profile with ultra low speeds at 100%, slower infill (like 50% slower), and simply match the bridge speeds of the Flex preset for all fills and bridges.

Biggest problem: OMG IT STICKS TO PEI. I could have lifted my printer just by the 3cm x 1cm footprint printed. I pulled at it for 10 minutes. I think it started to life the PEI off the bed. Fortunately the PEI is stuck to the bed SLIGHTLY more strongly than the Ninjaflex was.

Another post.

# generated by Slic3r 1.31.6-prusa3d-win64 on Mon Dec 19 18:33:33 2016
bed_temperature = 70
bridge_fan_speed = 100
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
extrusion_multiplier = 1.03
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 100
filament_colour = #000000
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_notes = "List of materials tested with Sainsmart TPU print settings for MK2"
filament_settings_id =
first_layer_bed_temperature = 70
first_layer_temperature = 225
max_fan_speed = 100
min_fan_speed = 85
min_print_speed = 15
slowdown_below_layer_time = 25
temperature = 220

Chris Shaker

Select SemiFlex or Flexfill 98A on the Filmanet Settings
Use the glue stick that came w/ the printer for the prints to easily be removed. You can also used Painter's Tape.
Print at 15/mms (Print settings -> Speed -> Travel) but it can go up to 30.
First layer at 100% height, 50% speed, width to 150%.
Disable Retraction. (Is this Printer Settings -> Extruder1 -> Retraction setting -> Lift Z?)

• Nozzle temperature: 230 °C (210 on another page Prusa had)
• Bed temperature: 50 °C. You can set the bed temperature up to 65 °C depending the size of an object. (larger object means higher temperature)
• Heatbed: Make sure the surface is clean as described in 6.3.2 PEI print surface preparation chapter. Some very soft flex materials can bond to the bed too much and require to use glue on the bed as separator to prevent PEI damage.
• Surface preparation: Make sure the surface is clean. Some very soft flex materials can bond to the bed too much and require to use glue on the bed as separator to prevent PEI damage.

Each manufacturer produces slightly different material even though, they are under the same group. For example Prusa PLA and ColorFabb PLA will have slightly different output when printed.

To achieve the best possible output you should experiment with the nozzle temperature, fan speed, print speed and flow. All of these can be changed even during a print from the Tweak menu on the LCD panel.

Same also applies even for materials which are not listed here. Take the manufacturer suggested settings, find the closest match in Slic3r material profiles, modify and save as new. Continue by printing few simple test pieces and continuously use the Tweak menu. After each improvement, don't forget to modify the settings in Slic3r. Reset the tweak values before every print.

Don't forget to share your settings on our forums or directly with us.